Which epoxy putty to use

[HeavyUAL767]

Hello all

 

wanted to know which brand of epoxy putty would be best to use.  I’ve been using Apoxie Skulpt but have realized that it’s not the easiest to sand.  Are there any others you all use and can recommend.  Please let me know what you all recommend.  Thanks for your help with this

 

mark

---

Edit your Profile to get a forum signature.

[StarlifterNav]

Hello, Mark,

I’m partial to milliput.  I’ve used their white putty with good results, but had to leave it behind in the States when we moved.  Now here in England I bought a box of silver grey.  I’m sure it will work just as well but look a little different.  Milliput sands well and doesn’t shrink, at least not in my experience.

Good luck!

Cheers!

Tom

---

Edit your Profile to get a forum signature.

[Robert Leonard]

I use Apoxie Sculpt.  Yes, it takes elbow grease because of its rock hard nature.  But that is why I like it.  Before it hardens I use water, cotton buds and silicone clay sculpting tools to remove any excess and for forcing the Apoxie Sculpt down into gaps I want filled or re-contoured.

---

Robert V. Leonard

[gjake]

Hi Mark,

I’ve used Apoxie Sculpt in the past, and like yourself, found it nearly impossible to sand. I spoke to the folks at Apoxie Sculpt a few years ago, and they told me that I could use a little bit less of the hardner (part B) and it would make it easier to sand, although I have not tried that yet.

I have also used Deluxe Materials EzePoxy putty. It sands pretty easily and feathers nicely.

Gene

• This reply was modified 5 months ago by gjake.

---

Edit your Profile to get a forum signature.

[LH707]

Mark, I recently tried Bondo and quite liked it. My previous efforts with Milliput were less successful. Here’s the thread I did on it last year: https://airlinercafe.com/forums/topic/putty-recommendations/

---

Edit your Profile to get a forum signature.

[RAA188]

I’ve used Apoxie for years for scratchbuilding, always worked great. If you haven’t, try their version that comes in the quarter-pint tubs as it’s a little softer, sands better, and takes a ton of pigment well.

Never use JB Weld if you value your time 🙂

For warp-free castings I’ve had awesome results with Orca Composites epoxy, as well as System 3 resin. No warp, easy to tint (hint: dye it black, mix in some aluminum paint powder, and polish for natural metal that will never go wrong…)

HTH

Rob in AK

---

That which moves my soul will forever move my self.

[RAA188]

Hi Robert- (great name, BTW, we’re already related 😁)

As far as Apoxie goes, a couple notes: First is that after decades of composite work I’ve found it to be spot on that epoxies take *tons* of filler far more foregivenly than urethanes, and warp way less.

My personal favorite in scratchbuilding is to load Apoxie White (or if I’m casting my go-to Orca resin) with black pigment and a touch of alumin(i)um paint powder, then polish the heck out of it until it either looks like chrome or just well-flown ALCOA 2024 (sorry, engineer geek moment…) Never lifts with a fingerprint, stays rock hard, & in my oldest and near first build of a B-36 won’t sag, yellow (some epoxies do–watch out, unless you’re building a bare metal Russian bird) or degrade over time.

For all to note, one other thing about yhe “runny” Apoxie is that it can be brushed into a mold, and sculpting every version they make is easy with distilled water or isopropyl alcohol before it cures–And if you think it’s too hard, start at wet sanding with 320 grit paper, go up to about 600, and then put in some elbow grease with a damp shirt cloth. Bam, instant blinding polish 🙃

Off to get cleaned up for the day; stay happy and love your build ❤️

Rob in AK

---

That which moves my soul will forever move my self.

[Author]

Posts