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I’ve been using Krylon rattle can spray for gloss white as it doesn’t yellow over time but as with all spray can paints, the coats are too thick. I’ve tried the Testors square bottle white in the past airbrushed but the finish turned yellow over time and looks like crap. Anyone have a good recommendation on a good gloss white paint to use for air brushing? Let me know when able. Thanks all for your help
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Model Master flat white, followed by 2-3 coats of Model Master gloss Classic White. Be sure to use their thinner. Whitest white I’ve ever used. I have models painted over 20 years ago that still look like they were painted yesterday.
Thanks,
ahmed
KSFO
When a clown moves into a palace, he doesn't become a king. The palace becomes a circus.I only use automotive paint when painting white, it doesn’t yellow.
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Tamiya “White Fine Surface Primer” rattle cans yield great results if applied in four thin layers
that you allow to thorougly dry before applying the next layer.
After the fourth layer you can wet-sand (8000-12000 grid) and polish (14000 grid) it to the degree wanted.It does not yellow.
Cheers,
Christian
Christian Klepp
Lightyears Landscape Photography
Where Geoscience Meets Art
www.christianklepp.comI agree with Christian about the Tamiya white primer but….I skip most of the sanding and go straight to painting TS-26 Pure White over the primer. Yes its a rattle can and not cheap, but I almost never have any “issues” with TS-26
Ken
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I also use Ken’s method. I decant the paint into small 1 oz jars I buy by the dozen online. If necessary, I dilute it further with Mr Leveling Thinner.
Ben
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I usually use automotive acrylic lacquer; rattle cans or touch-up bottles. Chrysler Bright White has worked well for me. It dries fast, retains its “whiteness,” and can be over-coated with any other type of paint, without any unpleasant reactions. An automotive lacquer primer is a must when using them. I’ve also used Tamiya lacquers successfully, too, but they can’t be over-coated with clear automotive lacquers, and they’re quite expensive.
-Dana
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I also use Krylon but let it sit in hot water for five to ten minutes before you spray it!
I love it cause you can polish it!
Walter
Regards,
WalterBig fan of Tamiya TS-26 rattle can. No yellowing either.
Discovering Clint Groves and his ATP/Airliners America catalog in the late '70s made me realize I wasn't the only hobbyist with an interest in building airliner models. Beginning with Aurora kits and now enjoying the latest offerings from Revell Germany and Zvezda in 1/144 scale, it's been a fun ride.
Well… interesting topic. If Airliner Modelling tought me one thing, it is that you can find the best stuff and techniques among military modellers. So, when i need a tool/Paint/weathering technique it is always worth checking what the professional guys use – if you then transfer some techniques to airliners, you will make the pace.
So, in ver few words said: MRP-004 White
Prethinned airbrush acrylic laquer. No splattering, no needle tip dry, great opacity, dries in less than 10 min, solid and hard enough to withstand a lot and be polished, levels out perfectly when drying.
Changed my entire paintstock for MRP, never anything else. Sold all tamiya and other stuff.and one more thing: dont go for gloss white. always worse opacity then semigloss or flat. ALL MRP paints are semi gloss – when you finish decaling go over with MRP-048 gloss clear.
High quality Airliner Model Accesories
www.cr-models.comWhy spray clear on flat white and take a chance with the clear coat turning yellow over time. Most of the time, it’s the clear coat that goes yellow. Spray gloss white on flat white.
Thanks,
ahmed
KSFO
When a clown moves into a palace, he doesn't become a king. The palace becomes a circus.There is simply no way to compare military finishes to airliners.
The one thing that is professionally done is white finish.
By far the hardest thing to do like……ever!!
So easy to cover mistakes with weathering.
The real professional modelers are here on this site!Walter
And don’t get me wrong, airliner white whales are sooo boring,
I much rather do nasty F-4 Phantoms or P-51D’s
Regards,
WalterFloquil Reefer White, assuming that you can find it. Its simply the best airbrushing white that I’ve found. It doesn’t yellow, and it sprays on beautifully. It also covers extremely well, not needing thick, detail obscuring coats. You can still sometimes find a few bottles on the Bay or Evil, or perhaps languising on the back shelves of your local hobby shop. Grab it if you can.
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aro757 :
Why spray clear on flat white and take a chance with the clear coat turning yellow over time. Most of the time, it’s the clear coat that goes yellow. Spray gloss white on flat white.This is the reason I only use automotive paint. Automotive 2K clear coat will not turn yellow.
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Thanks for all the help with this. I’ll try the model master white on my next build. I’ve also heard that the Tamiya pure white paint is also good. Anyone had any luck with their white paint?
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Tamiya is good and so is Gunze GX1 (I think). I’m a great fan of appliance white (UK) or any other good quality car spray paint.
I have tried MRP recently and wasn’t as impressed as I hoped I would be. I found it needs loads of coats to build up any solid colour but on the positive side, it dries really quickly and is pre-thinned.Jeff
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Anybody know if TS-26 and LP2 are the same? I might try one of those next build to see if I can avoid the polishing that goes along with the Tamiya Fine Surface Primer.
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Yes, in the Tamiya LP color chart they cross reference LP-2 to the TS-26.
Gene
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Tamiya XF-2 Flat White is not heavily pigmented and takes forever to build up coverage. Same goes for their LP2 Gloss White.
If you really want opaque coverage, something that dries fast and has good bonding characteristics, decanted Tamiya White Surface primer, that’s been sanded down with a gloss coat applied on top is very hard to beat. It’s a two step process but IMHO definitely worth the time penalty.
-d-
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An ongoing discussion with no.pefect answer for everyone. My one input is don’t use Testors gloss white enamel and Testors Glosscote. You’ll definitely end up with a case of the “yellows” sooner than later 🙁
Ken
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Sounds good, I think I’ll stick with the decanted Tamiya FSP and simply adjust the paint/thinner ratio.
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Posts: 104Location: Salt Lake CityOccupation: Retired. Twice: Civilian HR manager and US Army officer
I use a variation of Convair990A’s method. I use Tamiya’s Liquid White Surfacer Primer instead of decanted Tamiya White Surfacer Primer.
I thin it 1:1 with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. Covered well the acres and acres of white on my AMP 1:144 KC-10.
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Robert V. Leonard
Robert, thanks for piling on with that experience. How much polishing do you need to do when you use the Mr Color Leveling Thinner? I might go pick some of that up.
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Posts: 104Location: Salt Lake CityOccupation: Retired. Twice: Civilian HR manager and US Army officerRobert, thanks for piling on with that experience. How much polishing do you need to do when you use the Mr Color Leveling Thinner? I might go pick some of that up.
It’s a primer. It drys semigloss.
I have a set of GodHand sanding sponges. I start with 1000 grit, then progress through 2000, 4000, 6000, 8000 and finally 10000.
I then give the model a good finish wash with soapy water to ensure all the debris is off. Let it air dry or use a hair dryer on low to ensure all the water is gone.
After 10000 grit, I sometimes go straight to decals, other times I use Tamiya X22 or Mr. Hobby GX100 to ensure a protected finish. I thin those two products with MLT.
Robert V. Leonard
I like using Tamiya LP2 thinned 50/50 with Tamiya lacquer thinner. Then sanding/polishing with 4000-12000 grit micro mesh. Latest model, I skipped the LP2 part, and used Mr Hobby Fine Surfacer (500/1000/1500 doesn’t matter thinned 50/50 with MLT), wow hard to find though, and just polished it. Turns out great! I use Alclad Krystal Klear as a gloss coat before decals. It is probably just re-bottled Future (or whatever it is called now).
Also note, I’m an idiot and overthink and over obsess with too much.
I don’t always say “Proceed as requested”
But when I do, it is because I have no clue what you just said.How smooth does the LP2 typically turn out for you? Sounds like a 4000 starting grit means it comes out better than using primer by itself. Same MLT question, do you use the T-108 or the T-106?
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I had no idea the MLT had differences! My current bottle says T-108, but I’m sure I’ve used both. As far as the LP2 goes, it sprays and dries very smooth. The only reason I use the micro mesh is because I’m probably too anal, and demand it to be smoother.
I don’t always say “Proceed as requested”
But when I do, it is because I have no clue what you just said.
Posts: 104Location: Salt Lake CityOccupation: Retired. Twice: Civilian HR manager and US Army officerMLT T-106 is the 110ml bottle. T-108 is the 400ml bottle.
I would be absolutely flabbergasted if there’s any chemical difference between T-106 and T-108.
Robert V. Leonard
Awesome, thanks for that input. I might play around with those next time I have some time to build again.
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Posts: 439Location: Someplace north...Call it PAAQ to start.Occupation: Work wood, 38 years keeping phones working and flying all over with my best friend in the ordo aurorae septentrionalis, Order of the Northern Dawn.Hi Robert (awesome name, BTW 😉 )
Beautiful KC-10…That aside, for you & all here I realize this is a really bizarre comment, but…
In my experience with casting parts, the best finish is on the inside (think black resin with aluminum powder polished out). For parts I’ve known would be either light colored or white, I’ve long used epoxy loaded with titanium oxide powder, which is the base for pretty much all white finishes these days.
Take that to a new level, and cut said epoxy mix with some acetone or isopropyl alcohol to make it flow, and as long as you clean your gear well afterwards it makes a nearly bulletproof white finish.
Just a thought…
Rob in AK
Shoot for the stars, reach your new flight level and fly true.
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