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Nice job Jodie! That Continental livery is one of my favorites and your 720 is superb!
Mark
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Nice Boeing, Jodie! Love the old Continental livery.
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Nice job Jodie! Great detailing on the wings, too!
Cheers,
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Thank you, everybody. That Continental livery fascinated/scared me as a kid, so it was inevitable I’d build something in those colors. The wing and engine detailing was the work of various shades of Vallejo Metal Colors, a couple of Model Master colors, and an awful lot of Tamiya tape that gave of itself for the cause, in several “two hours of masking, five minutes of airbrushing” sessions. The result turned out a lot better than I anticipated!
There could be an additional delivery before the weekend, so stay tuned…!
Jodie Peeler
"In any dispute the intensity of feeling is inversely proportional to the value of the issues at stake." - Sayre's Law
Very nice job Jodie! Your patience with the wings really paid off; love the fact that you picked out the glove with a different color, this can be difficult to see in a lot of photographs.
Gene
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Hello all!
I’ve been a “lurker” for far too long but have decided to take the plunge and start sharing my pastime of airliner enthusiasm with you all! Looks like some great models here. I am really looking forward to the DC-10 progress and Jodie, I love those Continental colors!
I’ll be starting my first model in *forever* quite soon: It will be the Minicraft 727-222, which my 6-year old daughter picked out of a stack of old boxes for me to build and hang in her room. Think this one will be gear up and I’m going to go bold with a scratch S-duct from plastic 5/16″ OD hose. We’ll see…it’s going to be a fun adventure.
Now, to test my photo uploading skills (I hear it can be a bear), here’s a nice top-ish view of the -122 which I’m guessing was taken on its return to the Museum of Flight. Looks like some good reference material for wings.
Josh
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Thank you, Josh and Gene, for the kind words. Gene, that different color for the wing glove kept jumping out at me as I looked at photos. Jon Proctor’s book about the 720, which has some marvelous color photos, was my best friend through the process.
Jodie Peeler
"In any dispute the intensity of feeling is inversely proportional to the value of the issues at stake." - Sayre's Law
Wow, amazing 720, Jodie! Looks awesome. Please submit it to the database.
Josh – welcome to the site! Congrats on getting your first photo uploaded.
Thanks,
ahmed
KSFOJosh,
Welcome to ACafe!! I think we may be something of neighbors!
Chris
"Sorry Goose... But it's time to buzz the Tower."
Josh, welcome! Holler if you need more pictures of that UA jet, I have a bajillion lying around.
Jodie, good work!
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Jodie, I do have the Jon Proctor book, and thus was aware of the glove coloring. It is in many online photos where I have trouble spotting that feature.
Gene
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gjake :
Jodie, I do have the Jon Proctor book, and thus was aware of the glove coloring. It is in many online photos where I have trouble spotting that feature.In particular, the photo of the UA 720 on the back of the jacket was my best friend during the wing masking/painting process. It’s clear as a bell there in a way that’s often obscured in online photos, so I made a color copy of that photo to keep on the workbench as a guide. I think my model depicts the wing colors a little too cleanly for an early ’70s 720B, which no doubt would have faded and weathered a bit, but since all that variation is so noticeable on early Boeing jets it’s at least in character.
(I also thought it a sad coincidence that I was relying on Jon’s book so much during this project, right when he had his final health issues. Maybe in some way this model is a tribute to Jon, even if it’s not a TWA airplane!)
Ahmed, thank you for the kind words. I will see about getting some better photos over the weekend and uploading them to the database soon.
Jodie Peeler
"In any dispute the intensity of feeling is inversely proportional to the value of the issues at stake." - Sayre's Law
Hello all,
I see that other great models are being built and presented here, other great modellers are joining this forum and it gives me inspiration and motivation to move forward with my projects.
Here is the current state of Boeing 737-201 Hasegawa 1/200 – Piedmont Airlines:
What remains to do:
1. Matt lacquer in front of the cockpit
2. Weathering – oil paints and pigments
3. Rotating beacon – top and bottom
4. Landing gearThank you for the opportunity to share my hobby here. :act
Greetings from Prague
Zbynek
Zbynek Honzik
www.zbynek-honzik.czHi Zbynek…LOVE the little 737! Fine job of modeling. Really like and miss the old Piedmont livery! Especially impressed that this one is 1/200..WOW! She’s tiny! Hope you don’t go too crazy with weathering…less is more, to make her look realistic. Looking forward to seeing her finished.
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Very nice, Zbynek. That little kit is such a fun build and with Piedmont being a name I remember well from my youth, I’m glad to see it remembered. I’m looking forward to what’s ahead.
Jodie Peeler
"In any dispute the intensity of feeling is inversely proportional to the value of the issues at stake." - Sayre's Law
Another delivery – and while not strictly an airliner, this one is a close cousin:
It’s the Minicraft kit, converted to an early high-visibility C-135B, with Paul Fisher’s replacement forward fuselage and engines. The photos don’t capture how this thing shines and how the fluorescent red pops.
I think I’m done with four-engined Boeing products for a while!
Jodie Peeler
"In any dispute the intensity of feeling is inversely proportional to the value of the issues at stake." - Sayre's Law
Fantastic work everyone! This is motivating me to get my DC-10 finished!
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Jodie and Paul, thank you for your kind comments.
I have never had the opportunity to see a Piedmont Airlines plane with my own eyes (unlike Pan Am airliners, which used to fly to Prague and I loved them), unfortunately I lived behind the “Iron Curtain”. I had the opportunity to see the first photos with Piedmont I was an adult and for some reason I really like this old livery.
Jodie, your C-135B looks really great! :yes
(BTW I love your “At the Gate book – DC-9/MD-80”, thank you very much!!!)Zbynek
Zbynek Honzik
www.zbynek-honzik.czHi All,
Here is some progress on my DC-10. I ended up having to repaint the inlets twice because the masking tape lifted on the first attempt. I will add weathering and Druz 144 decals later…
Cheers,
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Zbynek, what clear coat did you use on that 737? It looks perfect; not too glossy, not too matte.
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Hi Dan, I really like those engines, they look very realistic.
Hi Billy, I use Gunze Sangyo MR. COLOR – GX100 Super Clear III, but several very thin layers. The mixing ratio of varnish and thinner is also important – approx. 3 parts of thinner and 1 part of varnish. Then I unify the surface by airbrushing Gunze Sangyo MR.COLOR LEVELING THINNER. It can easily happen that in places where is a thicker varnish layer, there is too much shine. It took me a while to find the right technique and method, but the result is worth it. The disadvantage is that this varnish and thinner stink terribly.
Zbynek
Zbynek Honzik
www.zbynek-honzik.czZbynek :
I have never had the opportunity to see a Piedmont Airlines plane with my own eyes (unlike Pan Am airliners, which used to fly to Prague and I loved them), unfortunately I lived behind the “Iron Curtain”. I had the opportunity to see the first photos with Piedmont I was an adult and for some reason I really like this old livery.Jodie, your C-135B looks really great! :yes
(BTW I love your “At the Gate book – DC-9/MD-80”, thank you very much!!!)Thank you kindly on both counts, Zbynek. The DC-9 book had the help of a lot of really good people who let me use their photos, slides and line art, and also contributed the information in the text. I hope you find it useful.
As a native South Carolinian, when I was a child (in the days before airline deregulation), if your flight wasn’t on Eastern, Delta, Southern or Piedmont, you weren’t getting there! Seeing something with a Piedmont logo on it brings back lots of memories and makes me happy. I’m looking forward to seeing what you do with this little model.
Jodie Peeler
"In any dispute the intensity of feeling is inversely proportional to the value of the issues at stake." - Sayre's Law
Zbynek :
Hi Dan, I really like those engines, they look very realistic.Hi Bill-ay, I use Gunze Sangyo MR. COLOR – GX100 Super Clear III, but several very thin layers. The mixing ratio of varnish and thinner is also important – approx. 3 parts of thinner and 1 part of varnish. Then I unify the surface by airbrushing Gunze Sangyo MR.COLOR LEVELING THINNER. It can easily happen that in places where is a thicker varnish layer, there is too much shine. It took me a while to find the right technique and method, but the result is worth it. The disadvantage is that this varnish and thinner stink terribly.
Zbynek
Thank You for the info, it looks superb. I am trying to get away from using Future on my models, especially on 1/144. Do you have any issues spraying that over the decals? I assume you’re using lacquer based paint as well.
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Humble beginnings. Bored out the #2 and #3 intake cowlings, and cut the S-duct to fit. Required some removal of plastic on the outside of the tubing in order to get the fuselage halves to still fit together. Won’t be a seamless join but should produce a nice realistic effect, assuming I can get paint to stick to the inside. Re-shaped top of the tail to make the taper more gradual.
Josh
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I’ll call it progress, slow but still moving towards completion. Putty pox stage. Serves me right for working on 3 airliners as well as one other model right now. Fix one spot/pinhole/seam and find a few more over and over. The -100 and -200 will be Aloha planes, the -300 will be Arizona One.
Ken
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Billy, I’ve been having issues with Future as well, so I may have to give that option a shot when my LHS reopens….
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Thank You for the info, it looks superb. I am trying to get away from using Future on my models, especially on 1/144. Do you have any issues spraying that over the decals? I assume you’re using lacquer based paint as well.
Billy, I did have an issue with decals. The reason was a thick layer of varnish, its insufficient drying and another too thick layer. After about 14 days, the decals started to crack. See photo:
I found it necessary to make only very thin layers and let them dry well. I believe that the cracking was caused by the tension between the thick layers of different drying.
Yes, this varnish is acrylic solvent-based lacquer.
And of course I recommend always doing a decal test before use.Zbynek
Zbynek Honzik
www.zbynek-honzik.czNew issues with Future???
Please share. Difficulty locating? or applicating?
Ken
LH707 :
Billy, I’ve been having issues with Future as well, so I may have to give that option a shot when my LHS reopens….
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Great models both Zbynek and Jodie!
On the issue with Future, I had the same issue that Zbynek has described back in the early 90s, when I built my Hughes short DC-9. A few months after the model was finished I noticed the surface was covered with hairline fractures. Over time I discovered that I had painted the model with Testors enamels, then clear coated with Future. Even though I had let the color coats dry for several days, the paint was not fully cured when I did the clear coating. The Future dried much faster than the enamel, and as the enamel eventually cured, the Future fractured.
A few years later I read an article in an IPMS Journal where a guy had talked about issues with paint taking a long time to cure. He solved the problem by using a food dehydrator to dry his painted model parts. I hauled off to WalMart and purchased a food dehydrator and a few extra trays to add some depth. With a little practice I learned that using a low temperature (around 100 degrees) that one hour in the dehydrator was equal to about one day of air drying. I would typically paint in the evening, put the parts in the dehydrator overnight, and turn the unit off when I left for work the next morning. That would give me about a weeks worth of drying in one night, and I never had the cracking problem again.
I haven’t finished a model in many years, so I don’t know if this would work the same with Alclad or Tamiya lacquer, but experiments will eventually take place.
Gene
MOB
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I used to use a lot of Future but I always seem to have issues with it. Either in the application or in it cracking as above. There’s still a place for it in my modeling but it is very limited.
Same with Model Master or Testors paints. Goodness it takes absolute ages for that stuff to cure. I’ve sprayed it and I swear weeks later I can still smelling gassing off (or off gassing… however you say that). I’ve basically switched to Lacquers or Tamiya (for some instances) and I don’t think I’ll ever go back. As an aside… If you have not painted with MRP Lacquers… You really need to try it out.
Chris
"Sorry Goose... But it's time to buzz the Tower."
Ken, my issue with Future is that it either orange peels or runs, unless I get two misted coats exactly right and then hit it with a slightly heavier one. Just seems a bit finicky, so I may go away from it.
I noticed some spider-webbing as well in two of my older models where the fuselage was Futured, my guess is that those had the issue of the outgassing Model Master paint underneath it. It’s pretty humid up here in Seattle and it’s not very warm, so it might have been the case that the underlying paint wasn’t 100% there yet.
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Zbynek, was that model with cracked decals from the Gunze or Future?
I’ve had zero issues with Future on any painted surface, whether its enamel, lacquer or acrylic. I’ve used it exclusively since 2007. Granted, I normally let my models dry weeks before touching them again. The Future has never been an issue with any decals I have used and its very simple to use. I normally spray a fine mist final coat, at a higher PSI to give the model a semi-matte finish and it looks good in 1/200. I am not so sure about 1/144 however.
I’m just really worried if I used MrColor (or any other clear coat) that it will ruin the decals.
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Billy, I used Gunze Mr.Color in that case, but the older version of the Super Clear – C184. The new version – Super Clear III – GX100 is significantly better, in my experience.
Zbynek
Zbynek Honzik
www.zbynek-honzik.czZbynek,
I’ve had the same experience as Bill. No issues at all with Future, in any respect. I use
a soft, wide brush to apply it. It levels so well, there are no brush streaks. That said…I DID have an issue with decal cracking many years ago. Olympic scheme on a HAS 1/200 B74.
Paint was Gunze Aqueous white. That stuff took time to cure. I figured that out AFTER the
tail logo began to split apart a couple weeks after I finished it. No Future coat on at
that time. It was simply the paint shrinking as it cured. Been using Tamiya Pure White
for years now. No issues.
Alan Aronoff
Where there's a will, there's a relative.Radioguy,
The Gunze Aqueos colors are a bit insidious, they really need a lot of time to cure. I had one issue with these colors years ago and since then I have used almost exclusively Gunze C and Alclad II. And only sometimes I use enamel or other type of paint for details.
Zbynek
Zbynek Honzik
www.zbynek-honzik.czOk, humble beginnings for the 722. I am rather proud of the fact that I fashioned a #3 thrust reverser completely from scratch stryrene. For my next trick, I thought I could creatively paint every other fan blade with a lighter color to give the impression of guide vanes. However, my plan was foiled when I discovered that the number of fan blades is even!!! So, back to the drawing board there.
Yes, the Minicraft engines are way too long (~MD-80 versions of the JT8D). I managed to shave off a bit of the front and back of the cowlings so it’s a little better, but they’ll still look a tad too big. I’m going with them for now. Oh and I don’t think the large spikes on the exhaust cones are there so cut those off and made them into spikeless cones.
Josh
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Hello All,
I think your 722 fan disks look great, Josh! Your work on the S-duct is also really nice!
Some more progress on the DC-10…
The Druz144 engines are quite nice, but like any other DC-10 kit, there will be seams to fill. The fan disks are well defined and paint up will with Alclad.
This was a dry fit of the center engine without glue. The fit is quite nice.
The seams were filled with CA, while Tamiya tape was used to protect the surrounding details.
The “hot section” also is in good scale and looks right.
The pod engines have a similar seam to fill, but the method of assembly makes it possible to paint the inlet first, which is a great feature.
The airframe gets a Model Master primer coat to shake out any remaining seams.
Hopefully, I can get her painted next week. We are selling our house, so that is slowing down my progress a tad, but I am determined to finish this one!
Cheers,
Dan
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This is an awesome thread so I’m chiming in for the first time, and BTW, I confess I’ve been a lurker for a looong time. I’ve admired everyone’s work here and learned tons in the process so here’s a little WIP to return the favor, so to speak: I’m currently converting the old Airfix B727-200 to a B727-25C and adding a nice resin replacement nose I found on eBay
I’ve detailed all engine tailpipes with the older style clamshell thrust reversers…
…and filled and shaped the join ends of the pylons to match the contours of the rear fuselage following a great tip I read in britmodeller.com
=Snoeplau=
Great start Nestor. Looking forward to seeing the finished model of my favorite aircraft.
Welcome to the site!
Thanks,
ahmed
KSFODone!
And it remains to take final pictures and add them to the database.And what about your projects?
Greetings from Prague
Zbynek
Zbynek Honzik
www.zbynek-honzik.czNicely done Zbynek! I love the that Piedmont livery. I am planning a 737-200 in that scheme as well.
Mark
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Good work! I just finished clearcoating my KLM 747, I’ll post pictures in the next couple days when all the masking tape comes off.
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Snoeplau :
…and filled and shaped the join ends of the pylons to match the contours of the rear fuselage following a great tip I read in britmodeller.com
What’s the tip?
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pa747sp :
What’s the tip?
Took me forever to trace my browser history for it but worth it because it turned out that the source was not from britmodeller but from druz144 right here on ACafe:
How to fit a pylon to a wing (my experience)
I should be glad your question spurred me into finding the source of the tip, I would not want to send folks into a wild goose chase!
Anyway I tweaked Druz’s technique a bit so instead of using bondo like he did, I instead cut thin strips of sheet styrene about half an inch beyond the opposite ends of the pylons. I cut a notch in the middle large enough to thread the pylon mounting tabs through then pinned strip between pylon and corresponding hole in rear fuselage. I taped each exposed end of the strip in place against fuselage then held the whole sandwich in place with a rubber band.
So with strips firmly hugging the fuselage contours I carefully applied a bead of super glue all around between strip and pylons, being extra careful not to get any on the fuselage. Once glue dries, remove tape then the engines from the fuselage and you’ll end up with what shows in the above pics. Sand down strip to shape and you’ll end up with a perfectly fitting gapless pylon. Here’s another view:
=Snoeplau=
Snoeplau :
pa747sp :
What’s the tip?
Took me forever to trace my browser history for it but worth it because it turned out that the source was not from britmodeller but from druz144 right here on ACafe:
How to fit a pylon to a wing (my experience)
I should be glad your question spurred me into finding the source of the tip, I would not want to send folks into a wild goose chase!
Anyway I tweaked Druz’s technique a bit so instead of using bondo like he did, I instead cut thin strips of sheet styrene about half an inch beyond the opposite ends of the pylons. I cut a notch in the middle large enough to thread the pylon mounting tabs through then pinned strip between pylon and corresponding hole in rear fuselage. I taped each exposed end of the strip in place against fuselage then held the whole sandwich in place with a rubber band.
So with strips firmly hugging the fuselage contours I carefully applied a bead of super glue all around between strip and pylons, being extra careful not to get any on the fuselage. Once glue dries, remove tape then the engines from the fuselage and you’ll end up with what shows in the above pics. Sand down strip to shape and you’ll end up with a perfectly fitting gapless pylon. Here’s another view:
Wow, thats really clever. Took me a couple of reads to work it out, but eventually I figured it out. I’m guessing the same technique could be used for wings etc.
I’ve wondered if we could do with a separate place on AC to document all these clever tips.
Cheers
Nick
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Photography is already in progress …
Cheers
Zbynek
Zbynek Honzik
www.zbynek-honzik.czWow! That is a pretty awesome photography setup Zbynek. Nice!
Here is some progress on the Diesel 10…
I am really impressed with the Druz 144 engines. Very user-friendly!
Almost ready to paint. I just need to fill in the last of the gaps. I should have her ready by the AC model contest deadline.
Cheers,
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Very nice progress. That engines look great, Dan. I’m looking forward to the finished model!
Zbynek
Zbynek Honzik
www.zbynek-honzik.czDC-10 looks great Dan. Is it going to be these colors: https://www.flickr.com/photos/caz_pix/40088248793 ?
Thanks,
ahmed
KSFOThanks Ahmed!
That is a great paint scheme. Sorry to disappoint but I am going with Laker Skytrain “Florida Belle.” I have been reading the newly released biography of Freddie Laker. Pretty fascinating guy.
I just noticed a seam on the DC-10 that the primer did not make obvious so I am having to fill it and respray the Classic White. I still hope to have it done within a week or so.
Cheers,
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