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      Bill-ay


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      Post #54131, posted on 07-22-2014 GMT-5 hours    
      Received two Authentic Airliners new A300-600 kits in the mail the other day. This is my first experience handling any of Kurt's kits and can truly say the level of quality of these scale models is phenomenal, especially of a subject such as the AB6 which is practically not represented in 1/144 at all. Many of the resin kits I have had experience with in the past are quite intimidating as they require many skills that those of us who build plastic kits are not used to. This A300-600 kit, though containing many fragile parts, is very straightforward. The kit pieces are not attached to mold "flash" where they interfere with detail on the parts. Simply chop-off the larger scrap resin pieces, sand to fit and attach.

      Photos (many may appear soft, i was again too lazy to bring out the tri-pod so you must suffer with a high ISO )

      The first thing I noticed on one of the boxes was the extra set of photo-etch. Kurt was kind enough to include the extra sprue for my PAS A310 kit, which does not include any aeriels, pitots, etc. Service you can't beat.






      Since the A300 and A310 kits that Kurt offers share many of the same parts, you will find various A310 parts included in this kit as well, on top that, you get two complete engine sets for both GE and PW. This is an added bonus if you have a PAS kit and want to make an A310-200. You can use the tailskid included in this A300 kit that is for an A310-200 and also use the PW engines, although not 100% to a -200, they will work fine.


      APU detail:


      GE engines. Revell on bottom, AA in middle and PAS on top:


      PW engines. BraZ on top, AA on bottom:




      BraZ on bottom, AA on top:


      Pas on bottom, AA on top:


      Excellent fit:

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      radioguy


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      Post #54132, posted on 07-22-2014 GMT-5 hours    
      From the looks of it, Kurt really nailed the nose shape compared to the others.
      No dispute, his work is superb.

      Alan Aronoff
      CYUL

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      aptivaboy


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      Post #54161, posted on 07-25-2014 GMT-5 hours    
      That certainly looks beautiful. With respect to PAS, the Authentic panel lines look crisper. I also like the rivet details on the engine pylons. Would the Authentic Airliners 'bus also work for a Continental Airlines bird?

      Thanks,

      Bob

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      Bill-ay


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      Post #54176, posted on 07-27-2014 GMT-5 hours    
      Quote
      aptivaboy :
      That certainly looks beautiful. With respect to PAS, the Authentic panel lines look crisper. I also like the rivet details on the engine pylons. Would the Authentic Airliners 'bus also work for a Continental Airlines bird?

      Thanks,

      Bob



      Bob,

      The Continental birds were -B4 variants. Some of the more obvious characteristics the "B" variants have are that they were shorter, have a different tail and wing pattern, different style hori. stab rub plate and the engines are also different from the -600's. HOWEVER...you could more than likely use this kit as a base to build a beautiful -B4 variant using components from the Airfix kit. Regardless, this is a unique opportunity to build an extremely accurate -600 in 1/144. Trying myself to get more while they last.

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      Bill-ay


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      Post #56318, posted on 01-28-2015 GMT-5 hours    
      Started on this lovely kit.

      Snug fit, minimal shaping/sanding on all attach points:






      I would recommend attaching the winglets AFTER you attach the wings to the fuselage (if you're not going to first paint the wings before attaching) to ensure the correct angle of the winglets.

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      CanalGuna


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      Post #56345, posted on 01-29-2015 GMT-5 hours    
      Nice review. I have to admit I am still afraid to this type of modeling. What is your approach with these kits? What do you use to sand the blocks? Any info is welcome.

      Ignacio Allende C.

      Speed is life.
      Altitude is Life Insurance.

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      radioguy


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      Post #56346, posted on 01-29-2015 GMT-5 hours    
      Ignacio,

      Generally, you would remove the bulk casting as closely as possible. Either use a fine saw or blade as required.
      Then, you need an absolutely flat surface to sand on. I use light, circular motions on a sheet of sandpaper that I've
      taped to the bench. You want to get the surface as flat as possible while maintaining the proper alignment with the
      mating surface. For large parts like the fuselage, some modelers prefer to hollow as much of the mating surfaces as
      possible, only leaving a bit more than what's needed to actually get the parts together. Makes sense to me, as no matter
      how "flat" I thought something was using my method, there was always a bit of play between the surfaces. I'll try this
      on my next Kurt project. Just keep the CoG in mind so you don't end up with a tail-sitter. I believe Kurt places forward
      weight into his castings, though I'm open to correction on that.

      Otherwise, they're very simple (except the landing gear on some), superbly engineered kits that require a lot less work than
      your basic styrene box shaker. Use CA as your adhesive. Nothing else will work (or work as well). Beware!! The small bits,
      like the landing gear parts, are very fragile. They're brittle. Handle gently.

      Don't be frightened or intimidated by any of this. You must have at least one of Kurt's gems in your stash. When you complete
      the first, you'll probably go for more. Good luck!

      Alan Aronoff
      CYUL

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      CanalGuna


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      Post #56357, posted on 01-30-2015 GMT-5 hours    
      Thanks Alan very helpful indeed. If sanding manually will you still need a breathing mask for resin dust?. And yes, I've been looking at my AA kits trying to figure out how could the delicate landing gears not break...

      Ignacio Allende C.

      Speed is life.
      Altitude is Life Insurance.

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      LH707


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      Post #56364, posted on 01-30-2015 GMT-5 hours    
      Quote
      CanalGuna :
      Thanks Alan very helpful indeed. If sanding manually will you still need a breathing mask for resin dust?. And yes, I've been looking at my AA kits trying to figure out how could the delicate landing gears not break...


      I would suggest wet-sanding to keep dust down, but if you get dust, I'd either go outside or use a mask.

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      Bill-ay


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      Post #67359, posted on 05-25-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      I am almost finished with my kit. Finding/waiting for decals to be produced that could fit this kit was the hardest part, since almost non existed at the time of its release. I am using F-DCAL decals designed for a different kit, but they still fit nicely nonetheless. Iran Air uses an updated wing corogard pattern, more simplified than the original A300 series wings. Not sure what I'm going to do about the gear yet. I have some Revell A300-600ST Belgua gear sets that would be stronger than the resin ones in the kit.

      decals used so far:

      -F-DCAL
      -Liveries Unlimited
      -DACO
      -Authentic Airliners
      -Revell

      (click on photos to make them bigger and not as blurry)



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      145pilot


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      Post #67360, posted on 05-25-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      Looks great Billy!! Were the wings attached to the fuselage or separate when you painted this?

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      Bill-ay


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      Post #67361, posted on 05-25-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      Thanks Doug! Yes, I attached the wings before painting. I used that vinyl tape you gave me to mask around the wing box and it worked like a charm, never had a cleaner paint line before.

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      Seven-Two Fan


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      Post #67362, posted on 05-26-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      Looking great, Billy! What tape are you guys referring to? You've piqued my interest.

      Andy

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      Bill-ay


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      Post #67363, posted on 05-26-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      This stuff! http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MMM0/06404/N1998.oap?ck=Search_N1998_-1_-1&pt=N1998&ppt=C0404

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      LH707


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      Post #67364, posted on 05-26-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      I love that stretchy tape, perfect for engine intakes and compound curves.

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      XRadar


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      Post #67366, posted on 05-27-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      Finding myself joining the hijack of this thread... I used to use that tape, but have found the new(ish) Tamiya tape for curves is far superior. Probably because it is designed for us. It has the same qualities, but is thinner and less residue.

      Keep em separated!
      Steve

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      Post #67373, posted on 05-27-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      Quote
      Bill-ay :
      This stuff! http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MMM0/06404/N1998.oap?ck=Search_N1998_-1_-1&pt=N1998&ppt=C0404



      Thanks for the link, Billy!

      Andy

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      Bill-ay


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      Post #67374, posted on 05-27-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      Quote
      XRadar :
      Finding myself joining the hijack of this thread... I used to use that tape, but have found the new(ish) Tamiya tape for curves is far superior. Probably because it is designed for us. It has the same qualities, but is thinner and less residue.



      Link please!!

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      radioguy


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      Post #67375, posted on 05-28-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-87177-Masking-Tape-Curves/dp/B00VTDYTR2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495951251&sr=8-4&keywords=tamiya+masking+tape

      Alan Aronoff
      CYUL

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      Andrew


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      Post #67376, posted on 05-28-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      Great looking model!

      Kurt's window decals really bring it to life.

      Cheers
      Andrew
      CYYZ

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      gavmh


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      Post #67377, posted on 05-28-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      Again, all decals are designed by my brother Werner, though the site names sounds quite similar. However, you`ll need a realistic looking kit to apply those decals.

      Kurt