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      dpohunter


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      Post #65468, posted on 01-07-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      I've normally used blue painters tape to cover painted sections of a model when spraying exposed areas without any problems. Lately it's been leaving adhesive residue which is hard to remove without causing damage; don't know why this is suddenly happening. Looking for a safe alternative- the entire fuselage will have to remain covered for days while I prep and paint wing areas. Thanks for all suggestions.

      Never put off for tomorrow what can dry overnight

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      747-400


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      Post #65469, posted on 01-07-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      I always use decal paper and no masking tape resulting in a much sharper color demarcation as decal paper is very thin avoiding a thick edge of color and you don't have problems with lifting paint when removing. You also don't have any color underrun.

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      Challenger350Pilot


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      Post #65471, posted on 01-07-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      I have had the same issue; what I have discovered works best is first using a high quality painter's tape, like the 3M stuff, or the Frog tape, and always in small batches; the more surface that stuff covers, the more likely residue will be left. Make sure you use new tape, too; the old stuff could be gummy. Insure the temperature of the room where you apply the painter's tape isn't too hot...temp affects the tape glue (I may get scoffed for the temperature comment, but I promise its true)! In addition, make sure that the surface that is to be masked is very clean; use a gentle soap solution and warm water, allow to completely air dry, then a wipe with a clean cloth dabbed with some rubbing alcohol, and a blow from an air can or airbrush. Proper prep makes for a beautiful finish! When its time to peel it off, peel carefully and slowly, at a 120 angle or better, using constant even pull pressure. If it does leave residue, I find that rubbing alcohol works pretty well, with a light touch...be patient! when taping sharp lines, I always use Tamiya masking tape of various widths, depending on effect desired, then use the painter's tape for large masking areas, but never use the painter's tape against the actual paint line that will eventually show. Hope this helps...Happy masking!

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      BruinPrideBand


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      Post #65473, posted on 01-07-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      I used to use use blue painters tape exclusively but ran into the same issues. I've switched to a combination of Tamiya tape for larger areas. Tape for curves for curves. I've also started using Decal tape for some areas as well.

      Chris

      "Sorry Goose... But it's time to buzz the Tower."

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      Post #65474, posted on 01-07-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      Thanks for the good advice. In this case, a sharp color differentiation line is not needed, as it will be covered by a decal stripe. This is more a matter of protecting finished areas from overspray, completely covering large areas with tape. I live in a very humid climate, and even though the tape roll is new (and the a/c is on), I will try affixing it and ripping it off of a clean surface repeatedly before applying it to the painted areas; that should lessen the tackiness but still allow good damage-free adhesion. I agree with the soap and water prep solution; my models get washed more often than my dishes! Best regards to all.

      Never put off for tomorrow what can dry overnight

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      aro757


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      Post #65475, posted on 01-07-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      I always use white paper to cover large areas and only use tape along the edge where it's needed. It saves tape and you avoid the possibility of lifting off the paint or something like that. Don't use newspapers or anything colorful as it might stain the white paint. Regular white sheets of paper will work just fine.

      Regards,
      ahmed |
      --o--o-( )-o--o--

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      lichtjahre


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      Post #65476, posted on 01-07-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      I am also using yellow Tamiya tape of varying widths for masking and cut white paper to fit and to cover large areas.

      Additionally I use Tamiya flex tape for complex curves, e.g. the wing body fairing silver/grey or simpler for curved cheatlines.
      For silver engine intake lips masking I use Tamiya 0.5 mm tape, it flexes perfectly round around the engine.
      That may even work for these delicate small black radome noses, though this requires a lot of patience (and nerves yet).

      One difference from the above mentioned is that I always sand and slightly polish the final paint, no matter
      if its a large white, grey or colored area or just cheatline. This makes the airbrushed paint
      even thinner, results in that "painted metal" look and causes no trouble with color demarcation / thick edges as pointed out by 747-400.

      Cheers,
      Christian

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      BruinPrideBand


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      Post #65477, posted on 01-07-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      I can ditto the white paper method for covering large areas. Works great and pretty inexpensive.

      Chris

      "Sorry Goose... But it's time to buzz the Tower."

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      XRadar


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      Post #65478, posted on 01-07-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      Quote
      aro757 :
      I always use white paper to cover large areas and only use tape along the edge where it's needed. It saves tape and you avoid the possibility of lifting off the paint or something like that. Don't use newspapers or anything colorful as it might stain the white paint. Regular white sheets of paper will work just fine.



      A cheaper alternative is to use painters masking paper. You can find it at Home Depot, Lowe's even Wal Mart. They come in rolls in varying widths.

      Keep em separated!
      Steve

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      skyking918


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      Post #65480, posted on 01-07-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      Paper and tape is the way to do it. Tape for the edges and paper for the rest. Why stick tape all over when paper will work just as well? I suppose even plastic wrap/cling film or aluminum foil would work also.

      Michael McMurtrey
      IPMS-USA #1746
      IPMS-Canada #1426
      Carrollton, Texas

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      DanaK


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      Post #65494, posted on 01-08-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      I've used the painter's masking paper with good results, but for years I've used a narrow roll of layout tracing tissue,(aka: bum wad, trash, tracing trash, talking paper, white trash, yellow trash,) available at art/drafting supply stores. Another good, low-tack masking tape is 3M drafting tape, available at the same stores.

      Dana

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      aceebee


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      Post #66227, posted on 02-27-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      I use several different masking materials depending on area and base to be masked. I tend to use Tamiya masking products, often cut to size and shape on an old piece of glass to give a sharp edge. This plus paper to cover large areas and I've also used low tac 'sticky back plastic' film, sort of stuff kids might use for covering school books. Best to check tackiness. The stuff I have can lift off without too much trouble but leave it on too long (several days) then something happens to the adhesive.

      To combat the adhesive residue sometimes left behind (usually due to it being on for too long) use some computer foam cleaner. that tends to dilute the adhesive residue without causing any damage to paintwork.

      Another quick mask solution is post it notes. They are low tac and have a sharp edge, especially good for panel lines or changes in tone for metallic surfaces. Be careful with this is it can easily lift with the blast from the airbrush. A piece of Tamiya tape can be used to anchor. This is especially useful if masking over decals. Not guaranteed but safer than tape. So far not had a problem.

      I've not tried decal film but will give that a go.

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      cesare747


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      Post #66229, posted on 02-27-2017 GMT-5 hours    
      Hello all,

      Agreed with Steve and Dana, what works for me is the large roll of painters tape that has a low tack area on the edge for large areas and something new that I found on Walmart, Frog tape ! it comes in a regular roll and thick roll, same quality as Tamiya tape, very thin and low tack adhesion, excellent to mask over decals, once they are clear coated of course.

      Happy modeling.

      All the best,
      Cesar
      MIA