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      LH707


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      Post #68986, posted on 01-05-2018 GMT-5 hours    
      Every year, I try to build at least one model. 2017 was almost an exception, but I managed to sneak one across in the last few weeks in the form of the AA 757. Overall, I had a fairly easy time with the kit, only small amounts of sanding and filling required to get things to match up, like the tailcone and the engine halves. The shape is great, as is par for the course with AA kits.

      I keep seeing pictures of amazing builds on here and wondering "How the !@#$%^&* were they able to do that?" It's probably a bit of that good old "I acquired wisdom by doing all the dumb stuff you're doing" thing. Needless to say, this was probably not my best ever effort, partly because I tried rushing for a model show in April after a crazy work schedule and attendant procrastination, so some of the white paint didn't quite come out the way I wanted to, nor the blue curved edge under the nose and tail. For this, I learned that brush-on mask is finicky, and you're best off using the 3mm flexible tape (which I later used for the engines with much better results).

      Couple things I think went very well were fixing the fin and painting the wheels. With the fin, I dropped it by mistake, and heard a slight cracking noise. When I picked it up, the front tip of the leading edge fairing was gone, and had been eaten by the carpet monster. Dammit. I carefully grafted on a new chunk of resin, then sanded and repainted that section (yes, you can hand-brush primer and alclad if you stroke very quickly). Given how it looked before, I think it turned out ok, the only lasting damage being to the ego. The pictures are a bit fuzzy due to the proximity to the lens, but you can kind of get an idea here:


      One really neat trick I learned was how to paint perfectly circular wheels without painting the rim black. Here's how it works:

      1. Paint the rim and hub whatever color they need to be
      2. Lay the wheel flat, dip your brush in thinner, then touch it to the tire sidewall. The thinner (and a bit of black paint) will flow towards the tire bead.
      3. Dip your brush in the black paint, and then put it back on the same sidewall spot. The black paint will get drawn in by capillary action, and no bristle will need to go anywhere near that rim
      4. Paint around the rest of the tire sidewall as you normally would.

      As you can see here, I did #1 out of order, but the wheel third from left has the thinner in the groove (#2) and the spot to put the paint (#3):



      Murphy's Law dictates that you'll still muck at least one up, those are the ones that go inboard:



      One last think I caught after gluing the gear on was that the left wing was slightly warped. I took a risk of dipping it into a thermos of near-boiling water and bending it back down to be closer to it's counterpart. The bending action worked, but the Future clearcoat got cloudy and had fingerprints. I fixed that by spraying it with an ammonia window cleaner and letting that strip the clearcoat, then re-coating the wing. It worked out, but I dodged another bullet with that one.

      The finished product ended up looking like this:


      Now it's time to go build another one. Methinks the next one will be another four-holer.

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      MrMD11


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      Post #68987, posted on 01-06-2018 GMT-5 hours    
      I saw this same aircraft (N706TW) in Philly back on December 22nd. It had just arrived from London-Heathrow. It's one of the original TWA aircraft that American inherited in the merger back in 2001 and later sold -along with the others- to Delta.

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      planecrazy


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      Post #68988, posted on 01-06-2018 GMT-5 hours    
      Very nice work. My approach to wheels/tires is a little different. I always remove them from the sprue and sand/trim any flashing before painting. Before working on the hub, I spray with Testors Flat Black. Capillary action on the hub helps out when I use whatever thinned out paint the model requires. Mistakes are fixed with Testors Flat Black from a bottle. I recently used Draw's Delta MD-80 decal and found the tail logo to be quite thick compared to most decals I have used. Was this your experience? I'm currently decaling a Zvezda Interjet SSJ-100. It has been a complete pain in the *%#! I'm on my third set of decals as I found Draw and 8Adecals did not fit the Zvezda model correctly. Currently using the Nazca sheet with somewhat better results.

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      Post #68989, posted on 01-06-2018 GMT-5 hours    
      Moin Merlin,

      Very nice build, though I like them a lot more dirty, but well, I know that you prefer them as clean as rolling out of the factory. The 4 holer is on my workbench. I hope to have it available by March.

      Liebe Gre
      kurt

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      skyking918


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      Post #68990, posted on 01-06-2018 GMT-5 hours    
      I discovered your tire painting technique many years ago with the first model I ever painted: Monogram's Piper Tri-Pacer (original release, circa 1958!). I thought it was so cool; here was a demonstration of the practical application of capillary action as taught in my 5th grade science class! After the hurdle of that first painted model, painting came easy, and every model I built after that was painted according to the included instructions. Thanks for sharing this and for reminding me of a childhood joy.

      Michael McMurtrey
      IPMS-USA #1746
      IPMS-Canada #1426
      Carrollton, Texas

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      LH707


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      Post #68992, posted on 01-06-2018 GMT-5 hours    
      Thanks for all the kind words.

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      MrMD11 :
      I saw this same aircraft (N706TW) in Philly back on December 22nd. It had just arrived from London-Heathrow. It's one of the original TWA aircraft that American inherited in the merger back in 2001 and later sold -along with the others- to Delta.


      Yeah, I picked this specific one because it was my first ever lie-flat upgrade. I got to the gate for a Sunday flight to JFK on a work trip, and I was still feeling slow from Saturday night. The gate agent asked if I could come to the podium, and then gave me a new pass with 3C on it! I grinned and then slept for the rest of the afternoon. Best transcon ever. Turns out the ex-TWA birds are actually fairly new, most were built in 97-98.
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      planecrazy :
      Very nice work. My approach to wheels/tires is a little different. I always remove them from the sprue and sand/trim any flashing before painting. Before working on the hub, I spray with Testors Flat Black. Capillary action on the hub helps out when I use whatever thinned out paint the model requires. Mistakes are fixed with Testors Flat Black from a bottle. I recently used Draw's Delta MD-80 decal and found the tail logo to be quite thick compared to most decals I have used. Was this your experience? I'm currently decaling a Zvezda Interjet SSJ-100. It has been a complete pain in the *%#! I'm on my third set of decals as I found Draw and 8Adecals did not fit the Zvezda model correctly. Currently using the Nazca sheet with somewhat better results.


      I used to chop them out of the sprue as well, but I found that more finicky, especially with resin, so I pre-paint and then touch up the spot where I split them from the molding brick.

      Regarding the decals, I found the widget didn't fit right, and that there was no real way to address it, because there are four edges that need to fit perfectly. I emailed Greg about it, and he responded within an hour and told me that v1 was designed for the Minicraft kit (with a greater sweep and smaller fin) and that v2 for the AA kit would fit properly. He sent me a v2 set for free, and those went on well. Props to Greg for responding promptly and remediating the issue. Regarding the thickness, the widgets are a tad on the thicker side, but I managed to use a decent amount of Microset and Microsol to get them to conform to the fin, and then used Future over the whole thing.
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      gavmh :
      Moin Merlin,

      Very nice build, though I like them a lot more dirty, but well, I know that you prefer them as clean as rolling out of the factory. The 4 holer is on my workbench. I hope to have it available by March.

      Liebe Gre
      kurt


      Moin Kurt, hope all is well with you. I might try making a dirty one soon, but I spend enough time around dirty planes at the flight school that I like my models to look clean Looking forward to your 340 kit, and will probably also go for a few 744s as well.

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      NX28388


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      Post #68993, posted on 01-06-2018 GMT-5 hours    
      Really nice work, Merlin. I remember seeing N706TW in DL colors for the first time and wondering if my eyes were playing tricks on me! It's always a treat to see your work and I hope you'll share more with us.

      Jodie Peeler

      In 1924 Wien was Alaska's first airline. In 1980 it still is.

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      lichtjahre


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      Post #68994, posted on 01-07-2018 GMT-5 hours    
      Gr Dich', Merlin!

      Great to finally see your beautiful jet showing up here and it was particularly great that I could see it in real life on your table!
      I also tried several techniques regarding the wheel hubs and will come up with another suggestion shortly. Your results are very
      promising!

      I look very forward to see your long-awaited 4-holer growing into existence!
      Maybe you want to wait what Lufthansa comes up with when they are going to chance their livery soon!
      Though my fear is that it can only get worse )

      Liebe Gre,

      Christian

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      LH707


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      Post #68997, posted on 01-07-2018 GMT-5 hours    
      Jodie, I really need to make more time to build, hopefully I'll get two done this year, but I don't want to commit to it too firmly.

      Christian, good seeing you as well when you were in town, gotta get another meet scheduled next summer.